Olympic: Part 2
Hoh Rain Forest and hiking the Storm King
On our second day of exploring Olympic National Park and surrounding areas, we drove inland to the Hoh Rain Forest and set up camp in a truly magical spot amidst car-height ferns and mossy fallen trees.
We were able to find and secure a first-come campsite inside the park and made the short walk from the campground to the Hall of Mosses trailhead.
The Hall of Mosses is a short but iconic hike that departs from the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center and winds through an old-growth pine forest dramatically draped in thick blankets of moss. It’s incredible to experience the amped-up texture of this place.
This area of Washington gets more than 140 inches of rainfall every year — making it a rain forest, but unlike those we typically think of — in that it’s filled with both coniferous and deciduous species, including a giant grove of moss-covered maples.
The next morning, we embarked early on a brutal and breathtaking hike up Storm King Trail. We knew that it would be a leg-burner (for us flat-terrain-familiar Midwestern folk), boasting nearly 2,100’ in elevation gain in just around four miles.
Within a few hundred feet, we hit steep and seemingly endless switchbacks, where each pace forward was either a full step up between boulders and large roots or the kind of inclined path where you are completely maxing out the stretch of your calf muscle and need to lean heavily into the trail just to stay upright.
The trip overall has made us both stronger and built our endurance and capacity for hiking at altitude, as well as our confidence in what we are physically capable of. But this hike was a humbling experience for me.
About 75% of the way up, my legs and lungs just said no. I wanted desperately to continue (and to get the final pay-off from such a hard hike so far), but didn’t want to jeopardize a twisted knee or go so hard that my recovery would get in the way of future hikes. So I found a shady spot off the trail to journal and meditate while Taylor made the final climb to the summit (and later reported back on the trail details that I’m passing along here).
Roughly 85% of the way up the mountain, the maintained trail transitions into a series of rope-assisted climbs, aided by a pile of ratty gloves left at the base of the rope course. Due to the even steeper grade, loose rocky soil, and sheer cliffs on either side, it would be nearly impossible to do this stretch of the summit unaided. According to Taylor, the whole ascent process slowed significantly at this point, with climbers trying to figure out the ropes and more than a few simply frozen in place with fear.
But Taylor pushed on and made the final sweaty scramble (aided by years of climbing experience and comfort) and pulled himself up to breathtaking views out over Lake Crescent and the Strait of Juan de Fuca in the distance. Equally-euphoric fellow climbers traded offers for photos from the summit.
Taylor scrambled back down to meet me, sweaty and buzzing with adrenaline, and we continued our descent. The hike back down went much faster, as it always does, and once we hit the base we pushed ourselves to do one more quick mile around Marymere Falls Loop for a peek at more neon green mosses and brilliant waterfalls.
We ended the day at the trailhead on Lake Crescent, gazing out over the crystalline waters and marveling at the nearby deer grazing peacefully a daisy-drenched meadow.
We truly can’t believe our luck at continuing to hit perfect weather everywhere we go, and getting to travel to and explore so many beautiful places together!
One of my fav places from my brief time living in the PNW! This post makes me reflect on why me, the Midwesterner, spent a lot of time talking about the "tall nature" in the PNW and how it was on another level! I know you and Taylor are not afraid of heights (as your many daring hikes show) but for those of us who are, the PNW is a whole new level. I mean, it's VERY tall :)